Minnesota’s North Shore

I have been up to Minnesota's North Shore countless times and have come across some of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Starting with the northernmost attraction and working our way down the shore, this story will cover various stops one could make while exploring the North Shore. Mostly state parks the list goes, Grand Portage State Park, Judge CR Magney State Park, Temperance River State Park, Tettegouche State Park & Palisade Head, Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, Gooseberry Falls State Park, and lastly, Jay Cooke State Park (all addresses available at the end of story). This story may miss some spots that are on others' list of places to visit, but I have not been everywhere up north yet, and will only write about the places I have been.

Grand Portage State Park

Driving to Grand Portage State Park is essentially driving to the Canadian border. The entrance to the State Park is less than half a mile from the border crossing, and you see it as you turn into the parking lot. While exploring this park, one thing to keep in mind is that you will have no cell phone service. The main attraction is Minnesota’s tallest waterfall, The High Falls, over 120 feet (see right). The trail to The High Falls is completely wheelchair accessible and only half a mile from the parking lot.

There are a couple of other hikes, one being the Middle Falls Trail, which is not kid-friendly. This four-and-a-half-mile loop goes over unstable ground and is extremely hilly. The path leads you to the Middle falls, which stand around 20 feet. One exciting thing about this park is that no parking permits are required. The entire parking lot is considered a rest area, and as such, anyone can park there for whatever reason. If you are anywhere in the area, I would highly recommend this as it is a relatively easy hike and free to enter.

Judge CR Magney State Park

Until 1963, Judge CR Magney State Park was known as Brule River State Park, but the name was changed to honor a man who had accomplished many great things for Minnesota’s outdoors. As mayor of Duluth, and Minnesota Supreme Court Justice, Magney was able to save about 20,000 acres of land to preserve its natural state. He also helped influence the creation of 11 state parks and waysides along Lake Superior. The State Park is most known for its mysterious waterfall, the Devil’s Kettle. The Devil’s Kettle is a split in the Brule River where one half goes over the edge of a waterfall, and the other goes into a peculiar hole. Thousands of objects have been thrown into the Devil’s Kettle to see where they might come out, only to never be seen again.

In the Spring of 2017, Hydrologists Jeff Green and Calvin Alexander set out to solve the mystery of the Kettle. They measured the volume of the water above the waterfall and downstream, and the volumes were near identical. The test shows that while the Devil’s Kettle must rejoin somewhere, it did not prove where. The pair were set to go back in the fall of 2017, when the river was lower, to put dye into Devil’s Kettle in order to see where it rejoins. However, that experiment was called off and deemed unnecessary, and no further explanation has ever been given. To me, this means the mystery remains. While the hydrologists answered whether or not it rejoins with the river, they failed to provide a path the Kettle takes, and most importantly, where it rejoins the river. While the volume test proves it does, not knowing where remains a mystery and may stay that way forever. One thing to think about before heading out is that Devil’s Kettle is one mile away from the parking lot, and the hike is moderately challenging, with nearly 200 stairs to climb, one-way.

Temperance River State Park

Temperance River State Park is a classic North Shore, State Park. Founded in 1957, the park has trails that wind up and down the river. You are able to explore freely and will come across some beautiful landscapes. Along with gorgeous landscapes, there are also a few waterfalls to come across (see left). None of the hikes are challenging, but keep in mind how far you are hiking because you always have to come back the same distance.

Along with incredible hiking opportunities, there are also tons of climbing routes for those interested. Carlton Peak is nearby and has many paths and difficulties for those to explore.

Tettegouche State Park & Palisade Head

Tettegouche State Park is home to some extremely famous landmarks and waterfalls. Shovel Point, Palisade Head, Cascade Falls, Illgen Falls, and High Falls, to name a few. Shovel Point (see right) is one of the most popular hikes at the park and is a little over a mile in total.

This hike takes you along the rocky shore of Lake Superior and offers excellent views of the lake meeting the rocky walls.

While Tettegouche State Park is home to four amazing waterfalls, the most impressive might be the high falls (see left). To get to the high falls, you must take a one-and-a-half-mile hike along the river.

Other than the immediate area, Tettegouche also offers my favorite place in all of Minnesota, Palisade Head. While technically a part of the state park, Palisade Head feels like its own world.

Palisade is a sheer cliff where Lake Superior crashes into the walls, some 300 feet below (see right). The reason I love Palisade so much is the minimal human presence in the area. All that’s been done is a parking lot and a small wall near the parking lot, otherwise it is completely free.

While exploring, you must be extremely careful as there are no walls or safety measures to make sure you do not fall over the edge, but if you are smart about it, you will see some incredible views. Palisade also offers some fantastic climbing routes and is usually busy with climbers hanging over the edge. One thing to keep in mind is the fact that there is minimal human presence up there, be mindful of where you step and where you are going. Do not trample over things you do not need to and try to stay on the rocks instead of the vegetation.

Split Rock Lighthouse State Park

Split Rock Lighthouse is one of the most photographed lighthouses in the United States, and for good measure, it is gorgeous (see left). The Lighthouse was created after a particularly harsh storm that caused multiple boats to crash into the rocky shore near where the Lighthouse stands now. Completed in 1909, the Lighthouse ran for 59 years, serving as a signal to boats that land is near. The Split Rock Lighthouse had five keepers, making sure it stayed bright. The first keeper was Orren “Pete” Young, who took over at the opening in 1910.

Fifty-two at the time, Young would serve as the keeper for 18 years and only retire because of the mandatory 70-year-old age limit. Franklin Calvin, who had served as first and second assistant at various times throughout Young’s control, would take over as keeping in 1928. Calvin, like Young, Calvin was a keeper until he was 70 and was forced to retire. Although the Lighthouse had seen stability with its keeper position, this would change when trying to find the next keeper. When Calvin retired in 1944, James Gagnon took over but only held the position until 1946. Morse Rhea was promoted to the keeper in 1946 and would be replaced a year later in 1947.

That is when Robert E. Bennets was promoted to the keeper and would hold that position until the land was sold to the government. Bennets was the keeper for 14 years and brought the Lighthouse back to the stability it once knew. In 1971, the Lighthouse was sold to the state in order to preserve it as a historic site. Other than the Lighthouse, Split Rock is also home to Pebble Beach, where you can sit and enjoy the view of Lake Superior and Ellingson Island. Something to consider before visiting is you can also tour the Lighthouse for an additional charge.

Gooseberry Falls State Park

Gooseberry Falls is the most visited Minnesota State Park, with three-quarters of a million people visiting annually. However, if you are not there within 30 minutes of opening on the weekend or cannot make it during the week, visiting this park may have to wait. With all the main attractions within a mile hike of the parking lot and the access you get to the waterfalls, I can see why this state park is usually so busy.

Also, Gooseberry Falls is the first major stop along the north shore, less than an hour away from Duluth. The main set of waterfalls are the Upper (see below), Middle (see right), and Lower Falls. These falls are all within sight of each other and are an easy walk from the parking lot. Other than those, Gooseberry State Park also is home to Fifth Falls, but that is further away, a little over a two-mile round trip.

Jay Cooke State Park

While not technically part of the North Shore, to me, Jay Cooke is the first State Park heading north that feels like the North Shore. South of Duluth, this drive may be more reasonable for some that do not want to travel all the way up the shore. Established in 1915, Jay Cooke is the fifth oldest Minnesota State Park and is older than any other State Park in this article.

One of the main attractions is the iconic swing bridge (see right) that leads you over the St. Louis River and into the forest with endless trails that wind through the woods and along the river. Some of the best fall colors I have ever seen have been in Jay Cooke State Park, and for anyone who wants to experience the North Shore without driving all the way, Jay Cooke is the perfect compromise.

Minnesota offers some of the best fall views in all of the country. You just have to drive to see them. And while this is not a complete list of stops, check out Bean/Bear Lake Hike and Two Harbors. This is everywhere that I have visited along the North Shore. While my favorite will always be Palisade Head, I would recommend any of these stops to anyone wanting to explore more of Minnesota.

Grand Portage State Park: 9393 E, MN-61, Grand Portage, MN 55605

Judge CR Magney State Park: 4051 MN-61, Grand Marais, MN 55604

Temperance River State Park: 7620 West, MN-61, Schroeder, MN 55613

Tettegouche State Park: 5702 MN-61, Silver Bay, MN 55614

Palisade Head: 5358 Farver Ln, Silver Bay, MN 55614

Split Rock Lighthouse State Park: 3755 Split Rock Lighthouse Rd, Two Harbors, MN                                                          55616

Gooseberry Falls State Park: 3206 MN-61, Two Harbors, MN 55616

Jay Cooke State Park: 780 MN-210, Carlton, MN 55718